The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a union of seven sovereign sheikhdoms, formed when the British withdrew from the Gulf in 1971. Travel agents are beginning to promote it as that much hyped 'land of contrasts'. There's a grain of truth in the cliché this time round, for it boasts mountains, beaches, deserts, oases, camel racing, Bedouin markets and the legendary duty free shopping of Dubai, all packed into a relatively small area.

If you only visit one country in the Gulf, the UAE is your best choice: it has the most relaxed entry regulations in the region, the best tourist infrastructure and, despite promoting itself exclusively to tourists with a buck or three to spend, it's extremely accessible to independent budget travellers. Moreover, the Emirates we considered safe and secure for travellers, although demonstrations and political gatherings are best avoided.

The best time of the year to visit the UAE is between November and April, when the weather is at its best. The rest of the year you're more likely to be running from one air-conditioned environment to the next instead of getting out and about and exploring. Ramadan, the muslim month of fasting, is strictly adhered to in the UAE; that means no eating, drinking or smoking in public from sunrise to sunset.

Places that normally serve alcohol stop serving it during this month. Ramadan is in December-January for the next couple of years.

Environment
The United Arab Emirates occupies the rhinoceros horn that protrudes into the Persian Gulf from the north-eastern tip of the Arabian peninsula. It's bordered by Saudi Arabia in the south and west, and Oman in the east. Its northern coast faces Iran across the Persian Gulf, while Qatar is just 50km (30mi) to the north-west. The seven emirates are Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah and Umm al Qaiwain.

Combined, they cover an area roughly the same size as Portugal. The Emirate of Abu Dhabi represents 85% of this total; the smallest of the emirates, Ajman, measures only 250 sq km (100 sq mi).

Much of the interior of the UAE is featureless desert, running to the edges of the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world, which occupies south-eastern Saudi Arabia. The UAE's coastal areas are marked by salt flats, while the northern and eastern sections of the country are green and inviting with striking mountain scenery. Fauna includes the Arabian leopard and ibex, but you're unlikely to see more than camels and wild goats.

In spring and autumn flocks of birds migrating from Central Asia and East Africa can sometimes be seen in the country's north. Outside of the mountainous areas of Fujairah and Ras al-Khaimah, much of the UAE's vegetation is the result of the government's 'greenery' programme: even the natural groves of date palms in the Buraimi Oasis on the country's eastern border have been supplemented by acres of grass and trees planted in municipal parks.

From May to September humidity is high and daytime temperatures commonly hover around 40°C (105°F) in Abu Dhabi and Dubai. In the eastern coastal cities of Fujairah and Khor Fakkan, the climate is slightly less hostile thanks to occasional breezes; the mountains above Ras al-Khaimah also provide some relief. Average daily high temperatures drop to the more comfortable 22-30°C (70-85°F) range for the rest of the year, though it can be very windy in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharjah and very cold in the desert areas around Al-Ain.